The typical fuel filter for most fuel-injected cars consists of a high-pressure canister filled with filtering media. Filters may have clamped, threaded or special fittings to ensure reliable connection to the fuel system. Filters for carbureted engines may be located at the inlet of the carburetor or inline. Filters for carbureted engines do not need to withstand the same pressures as those for fuel-injected engines.
On carbureted cars, replace the filter once a year. On cars with fuel injection, some carmakers don't recommend replacing the filter at all during the first 100,000 miles of "normal" driving. Since “normal” usually constitutes severe driving because of less than normal conditions, it's best to replace the filter every two years or 24,000 miles. A contaminated filter can restrict fuel flow from your car’s electric fuel pump, eventually taking a toll on its life. Frequent filter replacements remove all doubt about whether the filter may cause other problems down the road. Most filters on domestic cars and trucks hide underneath on the frame or body. Just the opposite is true on the imports. They usually put their filters somewhere in the engine compartment. If you decide to change the filter yourself, be careful. Fuel injection systems maintain pressure in the lines that must be relieved prior to filter replacement. Don’t forget that gasoline is extremely flammable. Procedures vary for relieving pressure. Also, some filters require special tools to replace the fuel filter. Because of these technicalities and because of most filter locations, it’s best to have your car’s fuel filter replaced by a qualified service professional.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Steering and Susension
Like your car’s brake system, the steering and suspension systems are key safety-related systems. Together, they largely determine your car’s ride and handling.
Over time, steering and suspension components wear out and require replacement. Regular checks are critical to maintain a safe car. Factors that affect wear include:
• Driving habits
• Operating conditions
• Vehicle type
• Type of steering and suspension system
• Frequency of regular maintenance such as chassis lubrication and wheel alignment
Symptoms
• Pulling
• Uneven tire wear
• Noise and vibration while cornering
• Loss of control
Over time, steering and suspension components wear out and require replacement. Regular checks are critical to maintain a safe car. Factors that affect wear include:
• Driving habits
• Operating conditions
• Vehicle type
• Type of steering and suspension system
• Frequency of regular maintenance such as chassis lubrication and wheel alignment
Symptoms
• Pulling
• Uneven tire wear
• Noise and vibration while cornering
• Loss of control
Steering and Susension
Like your car’s brake system, the steering and suspension systems are key safety-related systems. Together, they largely determine your car’s ride and handling.
Over time, steering and suspension components wear out and require replacement. Regular checks are critical to maintain a safe car. Factors that affect wear include:
• Driving habits
• Operating conditions
• Vehicle type
• Type of steering and suspension system
• Frequency of regular maintenance such as chassis lubrication and wheel alignment
Symptoms
• Pulling
• Uneven tire wear
• Noise and vibration while cornering
• Loss of control
Over time, steering and suspension components wear out and require replacement. Regular checks are critical to maintain a safe car. Factors that affect wear include:
• Driving habits
• Operating conditions
• Vehicle type
• Type of steering and suspension system
• Frequency of regular maintenance such as chassis lubrication and wheel alignment
Symptoms
• Pulling
• Uneven tire wear
• Noise and vibration while cornering
• Loss of control
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Brakes
Your car’s brake system is its most critical safety system and you should check it immediately if you suspect any problems. A properly operating brake system helps ensure safe vehicle control and operation under a wide variety of conditions.Brakes are a normal wear item for any car and eventually they’re going to need replacement. Avoid letting your brakes get to the “metal-to-metal” point, which usually means accelerating expensive rotor or drum replacement.
Engine Air Filter
Typical Wear and TearFilters are normal wear items that require regular checks and replacement. Factors that affect replacement intervals include:
• Mileage• Driving habits
• Driving and road conditions
• Type of filter
• Vehicle type
Symptoms
• Poor gas mileage
• Hesitation while accelerating
• Musty odor in the cabin
• Mileage• Driving habits
• Driving and road conditions
• Type of filter
• Vehicle type
Symptoms
• Poor gas mileage
• Hesitation while accelerating
• Musty odor in the cabin
Automatic Transmission Fluid
Owner's manual recommendations on transmission fluid changes vary considerably and may go as high as 100,000 miles or more. For best results, have your car's transmission fluid and filter changed every two years or 24,000 miles. Always use the type of fluid specified by your car's manufacturer. This information can be found in the owner's manual or on the end of the transmission dipstick. The overwhelming majority of transmission failures are heat-related, and automatic transmission fluid breaks down rapidly when subjected to high temperatures. Driving conditions such as trailer towing, quick stops and starts, ascending and descending mountains, and wheel-spinning in slippery conditions are but a few scenarios that can devastate the life of the transmission fluid. Although changing the fluid yourself is not difficult, it's probably best left to a qualified service technician. This is also a good time to drain the transmission fluid from the torque converter, if possible. Consult your technician to see if this can be done.
Saturday, April 10, 2010
Coolant (Antifreeze)
Check your owner's manual for antifreeze usage specifications. Antifreeze, when mixed at a 50/50 ratio with water, provides excellent anti-freeze, anti-boil, and anti-corrosive properties. In extremely cold environments, the ratio for standard ethylene glycol can go as high as 70% antifreeze, 30% water.As such, it's best not to mix antifreeze types unless absolutely necessary.
All coolants must be diluted with water at the proper ratios and should not be used full-strength. Full-strength antifreeze actually has a lower freeze point than when mixed with water. Generally, standard ethylene glycol type antifreeze should be changed every two years or 24,000 miles. Even though the coolant freeze protection may test OK with a hydrometer (freeze protection only drops with extreme dilution, not with age), the additives break down over time.
When changing coolant, it also presents an opportune time to replace bad cooling system hoses. Leaking, brittle, spongy, cracked, or rotted hoses should be replaced before new antifreeze is installed. Hose clamp connections should also be checked to ensure that they're secure and free from leaks.
If you decide to service your cooling system yourself, use extreme caution: Opening a hot radiator or coolant reservoir/overflow tank can cause severe burns. Be sure that both the engine and cooling system are cool before you begin any heating/cooling system maintenance or repairs. Because of lower hood profiles and cramped engine quarters, it's also possible that your car may be equipped with an air bleed for the cooling system. Unless the cooling system is bled properly, air may stay trapped in the system and cause erratic temperatures, or in extreme cases, engine or cooling system damage. If you're unsure about any aspect of cooling system service, don't take a chance. Have your car looked at by a professional service technician.
All coolants must be diluted with water at the proper ratios and should not be used full-strength. Full-strength antifreeze actually has a lower freeze point than when mixed with water. Generally, standard ethylene glycol type antifreeze should be changed every two years or 24,000 miles. Even though the coolant freeze protection may test OK with a hydrometer (freeze protection only drops with extreme dilution, not with age), the additives break down over time.
When changing coolant, it also presents an opportune time to replace bad cooling system hoses. Leaking, brittle, spongy, cracked, or rotted hoses should be replaced before new antifreeze is installed. Hose clamp connections should also be checked to ensure that they're secure and free from leaks.
If you decide to service your cooling system yourself, use extreme caution: Opening a hot radiator or coolant reservoir/overflow tank can cause severe burns. Be sure that both the engine and cooling system are cool before you begin any heating/cooling system maintenance or repairs. Because of lower hood profiles and cramped engine quarters, it's also possible that your car may be equipped with an air bleed for the cooling system. Unless the cooling system is bled properly, air may stay trapped in the system and cause erratic temperatures, or in extreme cases, engine or cooling system damage. If you're unsure about any aspect of cooling system service, don't take a chance. Have your car looked at by a professional service technician.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)