Fuel Filter

The typical fuel filter for most fuel-injected cars consists of a high-pressure canister filled with filtering media. Filters may have clamped, threaded or special fittings to ensure reliable connection to the fuel system. Filters for carbureted engines may be located at the inlet of the carburetor or inline. Filters for carbureted engines do not need to withstand the same pressures as those for fuel-injected engines.

On carbureted cars, replace the filter once a year. On cars with fuel injection, some carmakers don't recommend replacing the filter at all during the first 100,000 miles of "normal" driving. Since “normal” usually constitutes severe driving because of less than normal conditions, it's best to replace the filter every two years or 24,000 miles. A contaminated filter can restrict fuel flow from your car’s electric fuel pump, eventually taking a toll on its life. Frequent filter replacements remove all doubt about whether the filter may cause other problems down the road. Most filters on domestic cars and trucks hide underneath on the frame or body. Just the opposite is true on the imports. They usually put their filters somewhere in the engine compartment. If you decide to change the filter yourself, be careful. Fuel injection systems maintain pressure in the lines that must be relieved prior to filter replacement. Don’t forget that gasoline is extremely flammable. Procedures vary for relieving pressure. Also, some filters require special tools to replace the fuel filter. Because of these technicalities and because of most filter locations, it’s best to have your car’s fuel filter replaced by a qualified service professional.

Steering and Susension

Like your car’s brake system, the steering and suspension systems are key safety-related systems. Together, they largely determine your car’s ride and handling.

Over time, steering and suspension components wear out and require replacement. Regular checks are critical to maintain a safe car. Factors that affect wear include:
• Driving habits
• Operating conditions
• Vehicle type
• Type of steering and suspension system
• Frequency of regular maintenance such as chassis lubrication and wheel alignment

Symptoms
• Pulling
• Uneven tire wear
• Noise and vibration while cornering
• Loss of control

Steering and Susension

Like your car’s brake system, the steering and suspension systems are key safety-related systems. Together, they largely determine your car’s ride and handling.

Over time, steering and suspension components wear out and require replacement. Regular checks are critical to maintain a safe car. Factors that affect wear include:
• Driving habits
• Operating conditions
• Vehicle type
• Type of steering and suspension system
• Frequency of regular maintenance such as chassis lubrication and wheel alignment

Symptoms
• Pulling
• Uneven tire wear
• Noise and vibration while cornering
• Loss of control

Brakes

Your car’s brake system is its most critical safety system and you should check it immediately if you suspect any problems. A properly operating brake system helps ensure safe vehicle control and operation under a wide variety of conditions.Brakes are a normal wear item for any car and eventually they’re going to need replacement. Avoid letting your brakes get to the “metal-to-metal” point, which usually means accelerating expensive rotor or drum replacement.

Engine Air Filter

Typical Wear and TearFilters are normal wear items that require regular checks and replacement. Factors that affect replacement intervals include:
• Mileage• Driving habits
• Driving and road conditions
• Type of filter
• Vehicle type

Symptoms
• Poor gas mileage
• Hesitation while accelerating
• Musty odor in the cabin

Automatic Transmission Fluid

Owner's manual recommendations on transmission fluid changes vary considerably and may go as high as 100,000 miles or more. For best results, have your car's transmission fluid and filter changed every two years or 24,000 miles. Always use the type of fluid specified by your car's manufacturer. This information can be found in the owner's manual or on the end of the transmission dipstick. The overwhelming majority of transmission failures are heat-related, and automatic transmission fluid breaks down rapidly when subjected to high temperatures. Driving conditions such as trailer towing, quick stops and starts, ascending and descending mountains, and wheel-spinning in slippery conditions are but a few scenarios that can devastate the life of the transmission fluid. Although changing the fluid yourself is not difficult, it's probably best left to a qualified service technician. This is also a good time to drain the transmission fluid from the torque converter, if possible. Consult your technician to see if this can be done.

Coolant (Antifreeze)

Check your owner's manual for antifreeze usage specifications. Antifreeze, when mixed at a 50/50 ratio with water, provides excellent anti-freeze, anti-boil, and anti-corrosive properties. In extremely cold environments, the ratio for standard ethylene glycol can go as high as 70% antifreeze, 30% water.As such, it's best not to mix antifreeze types unless absolutely necessary.

All coolants must be diluted with water at the proper ratios and should not be used full-strength. Full-strength antifreeze actually has a lower freeze point than when mixed with water. Generally, standard ethylene glycol type antifreeze should be changed every two years or 24,000 miles. Even though the coolant freeze protection may test OK with a hydrometer (freeze protection only drops with extreme dilution, not with age), the additives break down over time.

When changing coolant, it also presents an opportune time to replace bad cooling system hoses. Leaking, brittle, spongy, cracked, or rotted hoses should be replaced before new antifreeze is installed. Hose clamp connections should also be checked to ensure that they're secure and free from leaks.

If you decide to service your cooling system yourself, use extreme caution: Opening a hot radiator or coolant reservoir/overflow tank can cause severe burns. Be sure that both the engine and cooling system are cool before you begin any heating/cooling system maintenance or repairs. Because of lower hood profiles and cramped engine quarters, it's also possible that your car may be equipped with an air bleed for the cooling system. Unless the cooling system is bled properly, air may stay trapped in the system and cause erratic temperatures, or in extreme cases, engine or cooling system damage. If you're unsure about any aspect of cooling system service, don't take a chance. Have your car looked at by a professional service technician.

Oxygen Sensor

Your car’s emission system controls the emissions, exhaust and pollutants using an array of sensors, computerized engine controls and the exhaust components. The emission system substantially reduces harmful gases such as carbon monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC) and oxides of nitrogen (NOx), and prevents harmful gasoline vapors from escaping at the fuel tank.

Typical Wear and Tear
Some factors affecting the emission system include:
• Driving and atmospheric conditions
• Mileage
• Vehicle age
• Type of spark plug electrode material
• Maintenance history
• Poor spark
• Bad fuel
• Damaged or worn sensor

Engine Oil Filter

Critical parts of your engine are lubricated, cleaned and cooled by your car’s oil and filter. Other specifically formulated fluids are used for the operation and protection of systems and components such as brakes, power steering, automatic transmissions, and cooling and axles. Your car may also be equipped with a variety of filters including those for the transmission, fuel system and interior ventilation.

Typical Service
• Change oil and filter every 3,000 miles or 3 months.
• Many car manufacturers recommend extended oil drain intervals for some drivers.
• If you regularly make short trips in your car, drive in stop-and-go traffic, idle for extended periods, drive in dusty or dirty air conditions, tow a trailer or live in a cold-weather region - stay with the 3,000-mile/3-month schedule.
• For automatic transmissions, brakes, power steering and axles, vehicle-specific fluids should be used.
• Coolant should be changed every two years or 24,000 miles on cars with ethylene glycol antifreeze.

Checking Oil

According to automobile manufacturers, these oils should provide gasoline-powered car engines with several benefits: • Improved oxidation resistance, which means less oil thickening • Improved deposit protection so that the engine won’t form harmful deposits as quickly • Better engine wear protection • Better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil.Maintenance Tips/SuggestionsBe sure to use the correct oil as recommended by your car’s manufacturer. Oil grades have changed over the years and you will want to make sure you use the right oil for the best engine protection. Periodic oil and filter changes keep your engine clean on the inside. Motor oil can become contaminated by dust, metallic shavings, condensation, and even antifreeze. Additives break down over time and can also act as contaminants. The best advice is to follow the guidelines provided in the vehicle owner's manual, but every 3,000 miles or 3 months is a good rule of thumb for oil and filter changes. Many car manufacturers today are recommending extended oil drain intervals for some drivers. However, if you regularly make short trips in your car, drive in stop-and-go traffic, idle for extended periods, drive in dusty or dirty air conditions, tow a trailer or live in a cold-weather region, it's best to stick with a 3,000- mile/3-month regimen. If you change your own oil, be sure to properly dispose of all waste. A single quart of used engine oil has the capacity to pollute 250,000 gallons of ground water. Never pour used oil down the drain or into the ground. Not only is it illegal, it's also harmful to the environment. Used engine oil is converted for new uses, such as industrial fuel or lubricants. Put used oil into original oil containers or other clean, plastic closed containers, with the contents clearly labeled on the outside and bring the used to oil to a facility that accepts used engine oil.

Car audios need nursing,too.

Car audio problems are a given for most motorists. It's only a matter of time. Be it a factory-issue unit or a system installed by a reputable shop, problems will arise and "repairs" will be required.
Like vehicles which require regular inspection for proper operation - the car audio system rarely gets the required attention.
It's only during the initial stages that car audio systems are pampered, so to speak. The installation process must be perfect to achieve optimal sound quality for the price paid.
But then a few months later you get used to the system and don't pay much attention to it like before. All you do is turn it on/off and don't care much about the system's "health".
The following is a list of what you can do to make sure your car audio system is in good condition:
- Clean the laser pick up lens, done easily using a CD Lens Cleaner available in most audio shops.
This is a simple process but is capable of influencing the audio and video picture quality if proper attention is not administered.
Once dust particles settle down on the laser head, the ability to read data accurately or focusing of the lens is compromised.
The laser head of the CD/DVD is set at about one to two millimetres apart; but once the laser head picks up dust particles the beam loses focus, it "shakes" or "vibrates". This will immediately cause noise disturbance, a skip in data reading, slow reaction or inability to search for songs, and shorter life span of the laser head.
- Cleaning the power amplifier of dust particles that settle down on the exterior and interior of the amp itself can be done with a small soft brush and a blower. That's the accepted method for hi-end audio enthusiasts.
But if you use a damp cloth instead, it may end up white stain marks caused by rust.
The power amplifier is a source of energy which is why high temperatures are a given. How hot it becomes depends on the class of the amp.
If it's a class A, temperatures will rise to about 50-70 degrees Celsius.
If it's a vacuum tube then you are liable to see temperatures rise to 100 degrees Celsius.
Now if a single drop of water comes in contact with it, the tube explodes immediately.
I once saw a technician make some adjustments to a system; unfortunately he was perspiring and a drop of sweat fell on a vacuum tube and it exploded. The audio shop owner's face lost colour because it meant he had to buy a new amplifier for the customer.
Shifting gears back to dust particles settling down on the amp; the ability to ventilate or circulate heat is compromised - and heat build-up will rise leading to "clipping" when SPL is increased.
Simply put, the operation will be stopped for short intervals by the protection system of the power amplifier.
But if the amp is able to cool itself efficiently, then "clipping" will not occur and the life span of the component is prolonged.
- Speaker maintenance usually focuses on heat ventilation and prevention of moisture build-up. Dust particles can be taken care of by using a blower or a soft-tipped brush (the types used for applying make-up).
Never use hard-tipped brush with the speaker cone because that is liable to cause damage.
Regarding moisture in the speakers, you should use a blower after the car goes through a car wash or heavy downpour.
It seems too cumbersome at first but after the car wash it is recommended that you drive at 80kph for 10-15 minutes.
Don't park in the garage immediately after washing the car - you will take care of the moisture problem and preserve your speaker's condition.
- The wiring/cable system and jacks which are usually hidden away from the naked eye cause the bulk of problems for car audio systems.
It's hard to detect and once a problem sets in the signs might not be apparent right away. It's a gradual cancer-like process which depends on operating conditions.
Jacks are prone to oxidation at points they connect with the cable. Just turn the head of the jack and look for signs of rust and, if so, ask the audio shop to peel off about one centimetre of the wire and fuse the jack again.
The problems with wiring and signal cable (see picture) is shown here by comparing a five-year wire with new wire. The difference is obvious, both inside and outside.
The worn out cable is liable to short-circuit the system resulting in no noise due to the protection system of the power amp.
Worn out sheaths and wiring is easily detected if it is the transparent type. But if it's the conventional type of wiring then it will be hard to detect the problem.
Side effects range from unclear high-frequency signals and loss of details. Sometimes the sound appears blurred; if the owner is used to the sound he or she will not be able to detect the problem.
If you want sound quality from your old system to be on par with when you first installed your "new" audio system - I recommend excess wiring of about six inches so that you can cut off one inch per year to see if there are any problems.
Within six years I am sure you'll be able to gauge whether your wiring and cable system needs an overhaul or not.
This way, be it a hi-end or low-end audio system, you get to maintain the quality and performance to its original level.

Before you buying used-car

1. to view the service manual. Documents and other vehicles up:. If the owner is an exciting car to the document. Because this document them. Experienced engine technician. Or who are familiar with the engine repair. Can tell the details of the car has plenty. Car owners with the document. Most people will have to maintain a car. And bring the car into service on a regular basis, however, do not forget to look at them as documents of the vehicle or not. If the repair area is part of a car at many times. Try to ask the owner. What that car with such parts. And told the mechanic to come to help audit the check point in the other. 2. check the deterioration of equipment such as rubber, rubber door frame, a key step, and the belt:. You can check the deterioration of the devices. The check on the number of miles run in the car to check conditions. Check that if the number of miles run less. But devices. Significant deterioration then. This shows the car's unusual. But conversely, if the number of miles run high. But other devices. Still in good condition, that car is interesting. 3. inquire about location (region) and the driving environment of the original owner. 4. round of equipment check car:. Starting from the check. Light such as light tell tell signs and turn signals brake light. Check the horn that sounds clear or not listening. Difficult and easy to honk. Check windshield cleaning equipment such as windshield wiper leaves in good condition. Not too hard or leathery. And water injection equipment functioning properly or not. Check condition automotive tires. Check the wear of tires and 4 wheels that are equal or not. Observation of the tire wear can indicate the position of. Structural condition of the car tires is to check the price because of the 4 line rubber price is quite high. The cost of inspection.