Car audios need nursing,too.

Car audio problems are a given for most motorists. It's only a matter of time. Be it a factory-issue unit or a system installed by a reputable shop, problems will arise and "repairs" will be required.
Like vehicles which require regular inspection for proper operation - the car audio system rarely gets the required attention.
It's only during the initial stages that car audio systems are pampered, so to speak. The installation process must be perfect to achieve optimal sound quality for the price paid.
But then a few months later you get used to the system and don't pay much attention to it like before. All you do is turn it on/off and don't care much about the system's "health".
The following is a list of what you can do to make sure your car audio system is in good condition:
- Clean the laser pick up lens, done easily using a CD Lens Cleaner available in most audio shops.
This is a simple process but is capable of influencing the audio and video picture quality if proper attention is not administered.
Once dust particles settle down on the laser head, the ability to read data accurately or focusing of the lens is compromised.
The laser head of the CD/DVD is set at about one to two millimetres apart; but once the laser head picks up dust particles the beam loses focus, it "shakes" or "vibrates". This will immediately cause noise disturbance, a skip in data reading, slow reaction or inability to search for songs, and shorter life span of the laser head.
- Cleaning the power amplifier of dust particles that settle down on the exterior and interior of the amp itself can be done with a small soft brush and a blower. That's the accepted method for hi-end audio enthusiasts.
But if you use a damp cloth instead, it may end up white stain marks caused by rust.
The power amplifier is a source of energy which is why high temperatures are a given. How hot it becomes depends on the class of the amp.
If it's a class A, temperatures will rise to about 50-70 degrees Celsius.
If it's a vacuum tube then you are liable to see temperatures rise to 100 degrees Celsius.
Now if a single drop of water comes in contact with it, the tube explodes immediately.
I once saw a technician make some adjustments to a system; unfortunately he was perspiring and a drop of sweat fell on a vacuum tube and it exploded. The audio shop owner's face lost colour because it meant he had to buy a new amplifier for the customer.
Shifting gears back to dust particles settling down on the amp; the ability to ventilate or circulate heat is compromised - and heat build-up will rise leading to "clipping" when SPL is increased.
Simply put, the operation will be stopped for short intervals by the protection system of the power amplifier.
But if the amp is able to cool itself efficiently, then "clipping" will not occur and the life span of the component is prolonged.
- Speaker maintenance usually focuses on heat ventilation and prevention of moisture build-up. Dust particles can be taken care of by using a blower or a soft-tipped brush (the types used for applying make-up).
Never use hard-tipped brush with the speaker cone because that is liable to cause damage.
Regarding moisture in the speakers, you should use a blower after the car goes through a car wash or heavy downpour.
It seems too cumbersome at first but after the car wash it is recommended that you drive at 80kph for 10-15 minutes.
Don't park in the garage immediately after washing the car - you will take care of the moisture problem and preserve your speaker's condition.
- The wiring/cable system and jacks which are usually hidden away from the naked eye cause the bulk of problems for car audio systems.
It's hard to detect and once a problem sets in the signs might not be apparent right away. It's a gradual cancer-like process which depends on operating conditions.
Jacks are prone to oxidation at points they connect with the cable. Just turn the head of the jack and look for signs of rust and, if so, ask the audio shop to peel off about one centimetre of the wire and fuse the jack again.
The problems with wiring and signal cable (see picture) is shown here by comparing a five-year wire with new wire. The difference is obvious, both inside and outside.
The worn out cable is liable to short-circuit the system resulting in no noise due to the protection system of the power amp.
Worn out sheaths and wiring is easily detected if it is the transparent type. But if it's the conventional type of wiring then it will be hard to detect the problem.
Side effects range from unclear high-frequency signals and loss of details. Sometimes the sound appears blurred; if the owner is used to the sound he or she will not be able to detect the problem.
If you want sound quality from your old system to be on par with when you first installed your "new" audio system - I recommend excess wiring of about six inches so that you can cut off one inch per year to see if there are any problems.
Within six years I am sure you'll be able to gauge whether your wiring and cable system needs an overhaul or not.
This way, be it a hi-end or low-end audio system, you get to maintain the quality and performance to its original level.